Empty Bowls

My appetite for soup begins to wane at this time of year as I look less often for belly warmers and, now that the fresh stuff is creeping its way back into my kitchen, begin to lunch more on the cool and crisp.

An excellent reason to revisit soup this week, though, comes via the Empty Bowls fundraiser, a joint effort between the Waterloo Potters' Workshop, Canadian Clay and Glass Gallery, and several local restaurants and bakeries that raises funds for the Food Bank of Waterloo Region.

This is the 11th year for the event, which will be held at the gallery this Thursday afternoon and evening. According to coordinator Lori Cowell, a member of the potters' workshop, it's quite a hot ticket in town (so much so, that its 450 $40 tickets were completely snapped up within a couple of days of going on sale April 1).

The Empty Bowls concept is not unique to Waterloo region. It started in 1990 when a Michigan high school teacher and his class made ceramic bowls for a fundraising meal. Guests would be able to keep their bowl so that, when empty, they'd be a reminder of hunger in the world.

The concept has spread throughout North America, with cities hosting events in support of food banks, soup kitchens and other organizations that fight hunger. "Everyone runs theirs their own way," says Cowell.

Over 50 local potters began making the 600 or so bowls for the event many months ago -- some by hand and some using a wheel -- using donated clay. Musicians, florists and lighting and printing companies have donated their services, as well.

As will the 10 restaurants and six bakeries that provide the grub. As guests arrive for one of two seatings (either from noon to 2 p.m. or from 4:30 to 6:30), they choose their own bowl, give it a wash, then make their way around the main gallery, sampling soups and breads as they please. Soup comes from, among others, The Rude Native, Sole and King Street Trio and bread from such bakeries as Nougat, Golden Hearth and City Cafe.

Thiru Maran, owner of Waterloo restaurant Classic Indian, has been participating in Empty Bowls for eight years now. Though his mulligitawny soup has been sought-after in years past, this year he plans to make Thakkali soup, which he describes as cream of tomato, Indian style. "it's got a little kick to it but people like it," he says of the soup, which is featured on his restaurant's menu.

As for why he participates in Empty Bowls, Maran explains, "We are landed immigrants. We came here with a couple of suitcases and had the willpower to work hard and make it happen, and the community has been very supportive. This is a way to give back and be involved."

Gusto Catering is participating for the first time this year. Their commitment to using local ingredients and building relationships with farmers has them sourcing greenhouse tomatoes from Elmira's Floralane Produce to make a Mediterranean-style roasted tomato soup with cardamom cream.

Sounds lovely, doesn't it? But not to worry if you didn't score tickets (though there's always next year). Gusto owner Dominic Ellis and executive chef Doug Westover have provided their recipe, which serves six to eight. Get out your best pottery, break off a piece of crusty bread and do give thought to the meaning that empty bowl holds when you've finished eating.

Roasted Tomato Soup with Cardamom Cream

3 pounds plum tomatoes

8 tbsp olive oil (separated)

1 large red pepper, seeded and quartered

1/2 tsp fennel seed

4 tbsp fresh thyme, finely chopped (separated)

4 cloves garlic, minced (separated)

1 medium Spanish onion, chopped

1 large stalk celery, sliced

1 large carrot, sliced

1/3 cup sherry

1 small red chili, seeded

8 green cardamom pods , roasted

6 cups chicken stock

1/2 cup 35 per cent cream

coarse salt and black pepper

Preheat oven to 400F. Core tomatoes and slice in half lengthwise. Toss in a bowl with 6 tbsp olive oil, 2 tbsp thyme, 1/2 of the minced garlic, 1/2 tsp fennel seed and the red pepper. Place tomatoes (and pepper) cut-side up on a large parchment-lined baking sheet, pour over remaining oil from the bowl, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast uncovered for 45 minutes to an hour or until desired roast has been reached. (If too dark, the tomatoes become bitter).

Heat remaining oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, celery, carrot and remaining garlic. Cook, stirring often, for five minutes or until softened. Add sherry, two whole cardamom pods (to be removed later), red chili and stock. Bring to a boil, stirring often, then cover and reduce heat. Let simmer for 25 minutes or until very sort. Remove cardamom pods. Add roasted tomatoes and remaining thyme. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes longer, then puree in the blender or food processor (or use an immersion blender). Strain, discarding solids.

Meanwhile, in a separate, small sauce pan, add the remaining cardamom pods to the cream and bring to a simmer (but don't boil!) Set aside and strain when cool.

Season soup with salt and pepper and serve with a swirl of cardamom cream.