Berries

It’s peak season for summer fruit, without a doubt, and it’s hard to make a trip to the market these days without coming away with more berries, cherries and plums than a person can possibly consume. And the peaches are just getting started! My fridge and counters are currently overflowing with raspberries, currants, cherries, blueberries and strawberries (the ever-bearing variety are still growing).

No complaining, though. Now’s the time to gorge, whether it’s simply by handfuls as you pass through the kitchen or whether you’re feeling more ambitious – in which case there’s no shortage of recipes for crisps, cobblers, platzes and pies to be made.

Now’s also a great time to freeze those berries on cookie sheets (then baggies) for muffins, pancakes and smoothies – so we can at least have a tiny taste of summer freshness during the cold, dark days ahead. It’s my goal this year to tuck away as much local summer produce as I can, whether it’s frozen or preserved.

The latter is something I’m just wading into. All the crazy equipment, the boiling, the fear of botulism – it’s always seemed too daunting. But last week I got my feet wet by making five jars of achingly sweet, deep red summer berry jam. Indeed, it was a bit of a process. But on the scale of complicated cooking tasks, I’d say it ranked on the simpler end. Yes, my kitchen looked like a crime scene when I was done, thanks to the process of pitting cherries and crushing currants. But come January, I’ll be eating my jam-smothered toast with thanks.

Here’s the recipe for Four Fruit Red Jam (from my new – and now stained – summer companion, The Complete Book of Small-Batch Preserving by Canadian authors Ellie Topp and Margaret Howard). Now’s the time to make it; all four fruits are still in season – but not for long. This recipe made five 250mL jars.

Four Fruit Red Jam

2 cups raspberries, crushed
2 cups red currants, crushed
2 cups strawberries, crushed
1-1/2 cups sour cherries, crushed
4 cups granulated sugar
¼ cup lemon juice

1. Place raspberries, currants, strawberries, cherries, sugar and lemon joice in a large stainless steel or enamel saucepan. Cover and let stand 10 minutes.

2. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Boil rapidly, uncovered, until mixture will form a gel, about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat.

3. Ladle into hot jars and process in a boiling-water canner for 10 minutes. (If you’re unsure about this step, consult a book or look online for rules on safe canning methods.)